Tumi Siwoku
Cosmetics innovator
Scientific and Innovation Lead, TheGelBottle
A journey of innovation in cosmetic science
Tumi initially considered pursuing a medical career with her A Levels in Chemistry, Biology, and Geography. But then, she stumbled upon a cosmetic science degree. This was a path that allowed her to dive deep into her love for beauty and cosmetics.
Working at manufacturing companies for skincare and beauty brands, Tumi has crafted award-winning products with innovative formulas. However, she also drives change and innovation by championing diversity. She actively raises awareness and serves as a role model to other women, making the field of cosmetic science more accessible for those around her.
The lesser-known, everyday role of cosmetics
As a cosmetic scientist, I’m often surprised that so few people realise the significance of cosmetics in their lives.
During my last speaking engagement, with a diverse crowd of men and women, I asked everyone a simple question: how many had used cosmetics that morning? Only the women raised their hands. When I asked who had brushed their teeth, showered, or used deodorant, suddenly, everyone raised their hands. They were in disbelief when I explained that they had all used cosmetics that morning.
Believe it or not, every product you use to prepare your face and body hygienically is a cosmetic product. Whether it’s the toothpaste you brushed your teeth with, the handwash for cleaning your hands, or the deodorant you sprayed on, these all fall under the category of a cosmetic product.
An unlikely diversion from medicine to cosmetics
I was initially drawn towards medicine. I remember going through UCAS and looking at all the medicine-related courses. Even though they fit my skills and the subjects I was studying, none of them felt right for me.
However, with my A-levels in chemistry, biology, and geography, I considered broader science-based degrees. I eventually found a new cosmetic science course offered by the London College of Fashion. The course was relatively young, about 10 years old at the time, compared to other well-established courses. I always loved beauty and fashion, so I thought, why not? This seemed perfect, considering my passion for beauty and fashion.
Despite my mother not being too pleased, I decided to pursue my passion for beauty and fashion. Luckily, this decision has paid off in the long run, as my job allows me to integrate my creative side, love for beauty and fashion, and apply my scientific background to formulation. It’s a perfect mix that aligns with my interests. My mother has since come around, in sharing my job with her friends, you can really see the sense of pride in her when she shares my work with everyone.
Early career journey from colour cosmetics to skincare
My first job was at a cosmetics company, thinking I wanted to focus on colour cosmetics, but I soon found that I preferred working on skincare. My next job was at a contract manufacturer where we made mouthwash, toothpaste, perfumes, and a variety of toiletries. This job, dealing with a spectrum of products, was the one I loved the most and where I grew the most as a chemist due to its versatility. We developed an SPF 30 day cream for a highly active honey brand. The product faced challenges during production due to the strength of methylglyoxal (MGO) in the honey, a naturally occurring compound known for its antibacterial properties. Despite numerous setbacks and stressful moments, this became the first product I developed to be stocked at Superdrug, earning it a Beauty award in 2015. A double win!
It’s funny because since I started working in beauty, I’ve totally changed the way I shop for new skincare and makeup products. I’m no longer swayed by huge brands and their marketing anymore. Now, when I go to places like Superdrug or Boots, I approach products from a scientific point of view. I check the product’s ingredients list to see if it has the specific benefits I’m looking for.
Driving innovation and change as a chemist
There are a few achievements I’m proud of in my career, but one standout moment was when I was working as a chemist for a well-known contract manufacturer. We were creating a facial wash with cellulose beads that hydrate in water, which hadn’t been made before in the UK. There were doubts about whether we could create the product successfully due to potential pressure issues in the manufacturing process. Despite this, I had the ultimate conviction that we could do it, and we did.
Another highlight was working with a honey-based skincare brand, stabilising their products to be SPF 30. It was a challenging project, but the product won numerous awards in 2015 and 2016.
In 2023, I was honoured to speak at Downing Street, sharing my career journey and the many possibilities of cosmetic science.
Championing diversity in cosmetic science for the next generation
I’m also proud to be a STEM Ambassador as part of the British Beauty Council’s Future Talent Campaign. We visit schools and talk to young people about cosmetic science. We show them how subjects like chemistry, biology, and even maths doesn’t limit you to traditional roles like being a doctor, pharmacist, or accountant.
In the cosmetics industry, the possibilities are endless. You don’t have to just be a scientist who formulates and creates products; you can also go into quality control, data analysis, perfumery. There are so many routes to explore!
Back in 2008 when I started my career, manufacturing was a White middle-class male-dominated field. Being the first, Black woman in the contract manufacturing facility I worked at, there was no real access to mentors who looked like me. As the industry has developed, others have someone they can finally relate to.
While I pride myself as an innovative chemist in the lab, I also see myself as someone driving change and innovation through championing diversity. I struggled to find role models and mentors in the early days of my career, but I’m proud to be one now. As a role model, my mission is clear: ensure that cosmetic science is a space that includes everyone.